(York to) Sheffield to Bakewell: a climb and a tart

July 18, 2017 Margie Comments 0 Comment

The ride after a rest day (or two) is a different beast to the ride just before a rest day. We’ve had two days in York, resting (apart from the 275 stairs to the top of the cathedral!), we are feeling fresh, and so are our bikes, after a bit of a spa and adjustment at Cycle Haven at York Station who have done a marvellous job of cleaning road grit from the chains and adjusting gears that have been a little off for the past few days.

It is particularly easy, as we take a train from York to Sheffield, an hour long trip that cuts a full day’s riding, and gets us into the Peak District more quickly. The only difficulties we have are getting the bikes on and off during the very short stops the train makes.

A grey-ish day in York becomes a blue-sky day as we head up the hill out of Sheffield toward Bakewell. I am sure that Neil told me it was uphill all the way, so I am prepared for it. The climb is gradual as we leave Sheffield, and becomes more steep on the outskirts of the city, but it is manageable now with my newfound verve.

At about 9km into the ride we stop for some lunch. Three cheese and caramelised onion quiche they called it. Oh my goodness, it was more like a cheese tart with onion, gooey and runny with cheese and just the right thing to get in your tummy for a climb.

I am surprised, when at about 12km the road flattens, and then a few kilometres after than turns down into a heady, 6km, exhilarating downhill that is even more fun because I am not expecting it. There are just a few more up and downs before we hit Bakewell.

Bakewell is a lovely little village in the Peak district, full of beautiful stone cottages, quirky shops, pubs, and bakeries, all pushing the local specialities: Bakewell tarts and Bakewell puddings. We take ourselves out for a Bakewell tart (though we almost don’t even deserve it after such a short and easy ride). It is massive, and comes with great jugs of cream and custard. For the uninitiated, a Bakewell tart is shortcrust pasty filled with a layers of jam and frangipane (almond), and topped with a crispy almond icing. It is similar to its cousin, the Bakewell pudding, which is believed to have come first, and which originates from Bakewell.

One of the main features of Bakewell is the huge church that sits atop a hill and dominates the townscape. It looks a bit like a movie set, with the huge church and ancient, pitted tombstones dotted around, some dating back to the 1700s.

After a walk around the church, we stop for a pint at one of the many pubs. I am still struggling to come to terms with the English Ales, though Neil downs them with great gusto and pleasure. I still often opt for a lager, which is more thirst quenching and less bitter.

Tonight we eat at the curiously named Pointing Dog and Duck, which offers one of the first opportunities on this trip to sit outside for a drink. It is a lovely location, right beside the River Wye. Even though we have taken jumpers along (as guided by our host for the night) by the time it comes to eat we head inside, and enjoy a lovely meal.

Our home for the night is One Castle Street, a B&B located centrally, and in an historic building, with its fair share of charming historical features (including some rickety stairs to our room). Our host Jeanette is friendly and helpful, and stores our bikes inside the house for the night.