It all goes downhill today

It all goes downhill today as we travel along Canal du Centre from Montceau-les-Mines to Chalon-sur-Saône. So far on this trip we have travelled upstream on every waterway. The gradient has never really been noticeable, but today, when things turn around and we head downstream on Canal du Centre, it brings on a fun set of downhill locks. We go through about five where I don’t need to use my pedals much, just rolling downhill to the next lock, then down again. It’s enough to bring a smile to the face of a slightly weary traveller.

The canal is very full. I don’t know if it is just recent rain or not, but the water is right up on the banks and a couple of locks are overflowing slightly. There must be some water management challenges for those responsible for the waterways.

We see plenty of vehicles marked VNF (Voies navigables de France) vehicles zipping along the road beside the canal – lock-keepers travelling between the locks and keeping water traffic moving – though we don’t see m/any boats in the locks. We do travel much faster along the canal than the boats though.

Even though it’s a fairly easy day of riding, it is a struggle for me. If I can share one bit of advice to my female reader it is this: if your doctor gives you a prescription for antibiotics “just in case” you get a UTI or other infection, fill the damn thing before you leave home! I almost always travel with antibiotics and have never, ever needed them. This trip I have an e-prescription which I never filled and Murphy’s law has kicked in. It’s been over a week now. Every time I think I’ve shaken it, up it flares again. I did see a pharmacist a few days ago and have a cranberry/essential oil thing I’m taking, topped up with some Panadol. Today I am just not really firing, not really taking in my surroundings, and not really having the best time.

And it’s hot.

We do pass along some really pretty areas and I’m able to enjoy them, but I am longing for the “romantic” hotel Neil has booked in Chalon-sur-Saône.

We get into town mid to late afternoon and present ourselves at the lovely Hotel St Regis. The hotel receptionist sees my minor distress and gets me water while Neil deals with putting the bikes into the garage. When we get to our (thankfully air-conditioned) room I flake out on the bed a while.

When I wake I’m feeling better and join Neil for a post-ride beer (you do have to keep those fluids up, right?) on the hotel terrace. (Never fear, I am gulping water too for those who are are shaking their fingers at me.)

We take a walk down to our new river: La Saône. I’m not sure how well I am going to get along with this one. Her name is a little hard to say. We’ve had a bit of coaching from people today. It just doesn’t flow off an English speaker’s tongue very well. We just don’t hold our mouths right.

We have a delightful dinner this evening. Neil McKinnon’s number one rule in life (he has a few number one rules) is that you don’t eat at hotel restaurants. The exception is hotel restaurants in Europe (because they apparently have real chefs). Chalon is pretty busy on a Saturday night so we jump at the chance to make a booking at the restaurant. The menu has a vegie entrée and a vegie main – something I haven’t seen much of these past weeks. The entrée sounds so good that Neil orders it too: an avocado bavarois.

I might not be firing well enough to really enjoy this town and this lovely hotel, but by the time I’ve stuffed my face with food and enjoyed a wine or two (and lots of water!) I’m feeling much better. I need to; we have a huge 100km day tomorrow!

Stats for today:

• Distance: 66.93km
• Climb: 68m
• Average speed: 17.3km/h
• Average temperature: 30C
• Moving time: 3:52:12
• See our ride on Strava

The beer picture

At the end of a day’s ride, our tradition is to enjoy a beer, and to photograph it for posterity. Today’s beer picture was taken on the terrace of our rather delightful hotel in Chalon-sur-Saône.

Along the way today: