When Bad becomes Good

Europe, as you know, is criss-crossed by trains. We see them everywhere, zipping along, zooming along, taking all manner of people to all manner of places.

There’s also a lot of level crossings. We’ve see plenty. We stayed right near a very busy one back in L’Isle-sur-le-Doubs. The thing about these European level crossings is that they close a very long time before the trains arrive. Much earlier than our few remaining level crossings in Melbourne. Many minutes earlier. Yet the very docile drivers in Europe put up with this and wait patiently. I suppose there isn’t much else to do.

We come across a level crossing today that is already down so we wait. And we wait. And we wait. After a lot of waiting a train comes through, but the gates don’t go up.

So we wait. And we wait.

It’s a single track, so possibly we are near the end of the line and the train will come back soon.

So we wait. And we wait.

I find a laminated sign discarded on the ground and get Google translate onto it. It says something like “due to technical issues you might have to wait a long time here.”

Neil slips under the gate and stands in the middle of the track looking in each direction for a train. Nothing. He comes back and gets his bike, ducks it under the gate and wheels it to the other side. I go to do the same thing but the front of my bike is a bit heavier and I can’t lean it enough and keep control of it. Neil is about to come back to help when we hear the distinctive sound of metal on metal. A train is coming. Finally! And then the gates go up and we are on our way.

It’s a slow day when my best story is about waiting at a level crossing, but that’s how some days are. After the level crossing delay we realise we are riding directly beneath the thunder gods. A huge storm is brewing and we hasten to get somewhere, anywhere before the skies open. That somewhere is Ingolstadt. We race into town with the wind whipping leaves into a frenzy and join the general dash of cyclists and pedestrians to an undercover area where we wait out the storm. And then, because there is a bakery/cafe there, we enjoy lunch and cake before continuing on our way.

The destination for this evening is Bad Gögging. The “Bad” in the name means “bath” in English, but is used to denote a spa town. We’re going to a spa town! I have no real hopes though. I looked up the spa that is near our hotel and the website said that it was closed – for “company holidays”. WTF???

Luckily I had the wrong place, or the website was wrong, or I just can’t read but the spa is well and truly open and only a few steps away. We have a lovely time at Limes Thermes, soaking in hot water and using the jets to ease all the tired and sore parts that a cyclist’s body develops. Ahhhh.

If you are ever feeling old, I suggest a visit to Bad Gögging. The average visitor here is a member of the walking wounded – elderly and/or with physical issues that “taking the waters” must help. It has certainly helped my calves, neck, shoulders, glutes and quads. We both feel quite sprightly after our spa, sprightly enough for me to perform some culturally insensitive knee-slapping when I hear the German folk band start up right near the restaurant we choose for dinner.

It is also quite the town for the romantic getaway with plenty of snogging couples in the spa and in the streets, most of whom are in the throes of late-life passion. You’re never too old for a bit of romance, and perhaps the waters help with that as well ????

Stats for today:

• Distance: 59.27km
• Climb: 90m
• Average speed: 16.8km/h
• Average temperature: 23C
• Moving time: 3:33:33
• See our ride on Strava

The beer picture

At the end of a day’s ride, our tradition is to enjoy a beer, and to photograph it for posterity. Today’s beer picture was taken at a restaurant at Bad Gögging, post spa, and with live entertainment from a nearby concert of German folk songs. In a break from tradition I have an Aperol Spritz which has become a favourite aperitif for me. I don’t know why. It is bright orange. Really bright orange. And there’s a bit of a chemical taste to it. But it is pretty in a way, and easy to drink. And is probably killing me on the inside.

Along the way today: