Cosne-sur-loire to Nevers
It’s not a day for getting things
Neil McKinnon June 2023
It’s Monday. Monday in France is a lot like Sunday in France. Many places are not open. It is hard to get things.
…
Sully-sur-Loire to Cosne-sur-Loire
A what?
We’re treating this today as a bit of a commute. It’s a 70+ km day and the EV6 route looks like it meanders around a bit early on so we decide to take the road for some of the day to cut a few kilometres off and get some distance done early.
…
Orléans to Sully-sur-Loire
Be careful of rogues and snakes
Jean McKinnon, 2013, as we departed on a cycling trip to Eastern Europe
“Shit!”
(Apologies if the word offends, but I must report accurately.)
We are riding out of Orléans and having a lovely morning in a park reserve. It’s Saturday morning and the locals are out running, riding and enjoying themselves on a beautiful sunny day. After spending most of yesterday off the bikes we’re both feeling well and fit. The bike paths are great and we are making good time. Today is a good day.
I’m on it before I see it and I’m over it before I can stop.
…
Chaingy to Orléans
Now the flames they followed Joan of Arc / As she went riding through the dark
Leonard Cohen
It’s just an 8km toddle from Chaingy to Orléans, but one that is a little fraught. I think this is the first time since we’ve been in France that there isn’t a defined bike lane on the road. We are just in the midst of what is probably peak-hour Friday morning traffic.
I guess there’s a reason why the EV6 route swaps to the other side of the river for the approach to Orléans.
We’re never in any real peril. Only one car comes anywhere near close and that’s really only because the road is divided, narrow and there’s nowhere really for the driver to go (and probably because it is a young and impatient driver). On the whole, drivers in France are incredibly tolerant and kind to cyclists.
…
Blois to Chaingy
Piscine and dinner with Jacques’ brother
Hotels and other accommodation places here are really strict on check out times. Our apartment check out time is 10am and we are finishing packing at around that time when there is a knock at the door.
…
Tours to Blois
Lunch with a master
I am no Imelda Marcos. Shoes, while important to me so I can walk around without destroying my tender feet, are not a focus of my life. But today I need new shoes.
…
Saumur to Tours
Troglodytes and sloglodytes
The Chateau at Saumur is fairytale-like and compelling. Before leaving town we take a walk up to the castle only to find it doesn’t open for visitors until 10am. Our host seems a little anxious that we be back and out of the place by 11am so we have to forgo a castle visit to keep her happy.
…
Angers to Saumur
Language matters in this land of fairy-tale castles
“I made a mistake.”
Neil sits down at the table and my mind works. What mistake? Coming to Europe on this trip? Coming to Europe on this trip with me? Taking two months off for a holiday?
What?
…
Montjean to Angers
Hugs and dragons
Today starts with a hug. Now you might not think that unusual, given I am travelling with my partner Neil who hugs heartily and often, but this one is a little different.
…
Nantes to Montjean
Yesterday was a bit like le départ fictif, because although we started our tour, it was a bit fake in that we didn’t have our bikes loaded with all our gear. Today then is le départ réal. It’s the real deal, panniers and all.
…