Travels with my Bike

Now the flames they followed Joan of Arc / As she went riding through the dark

Leonard Cohen

It’s just an 8km toddle from Chaingy to Orléans, but one that is a little fraught. I think this is the first time since we’ve been in France that there isn’t a defined bike lane on the road. We are just in the midst of what is probably peak-hour Friday morning traffic.

I guess there’s a reason why the EV6 route swaps to the other side of the river for the approach to Orléans.

We’re never in any real peril. Only one car comes anywhere near close and that’s really only because the road is divided, narrow and there’s nowhere really for the driver to go (and probably because it is a young and impatient driver). On the whole, drivers in France are incredibly tolerant and kind to cyclists.

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Piscine and dinner with Jacques’ brother

Hotels and other accommodation places here are really strict on check out times. Our apartment check out time is 10am and we are finishing packing at around that time when there is a knock at the door. 

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Lunch with a master

I am no Imelda Marcos. Shoes, while important to me so I can walk around without destroying my tender feet, are not a focus of my life. But today I need new shoes.

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Troglodytes and sloglodytes

The Chateau at Saumur is fairytale-like and compelling. Before leaving town we take a walk up to the castle only to find it doesn’t open for visitors until 10am. Our host seems a little anxious that we be back and out of the place by 11am so we have to forgo a castle visit to keep her happy.

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Language matters in this land of fairy-tale castles

“I made a mistake.”

Neil sits down at the table and my mind works. What mistake? Coming to Europe on this trip? Coming to Europe on this trip with me? Taking two months off for a holiday?

What?

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Hugs and dragons

Today starts with a hug. Now you might not think that unusual, given I am travelling with my partner Neil who hugs heartily and often, but this one is a little different.

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Yesterday was a bit like le départ fictif, because although we started our tour, it was a bit fake in that we didn’t have our bikes loaded with all our gear. Today then is le départ réal. It’s the real deal, panniers and all.

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Le Grant Départ, Bonjour La Loire!

It begins! Our grand, 2500km adventure starts today. The only issue is that we cannot immediately locate the start. I want a huge sign, bunting, a marching band. Instead, I am roaming around a space just near a river estuary wondering which way I am supposed to go. East, I know, but where is this famous Eurovelo 6 route?

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